Living in a Dream

“Inle Lake is like living in a dream”

— Cho

Our trip to Myanmar would not have been complete without visiting Inle Lake.

We took an internal flight to the region and then drove to where we would catch a boat to take us to our hotel. On our way from the airport to the waterway we stopped by a local artisan's shop. They demonstrated how they make parasols adn floral paper. both were very unique to watch being made. I enjoyed seeing the skeleton of the umbrella being put together and watch it turn into a beautiful piece of art.

We also stopped by a temple that had two buildings making up it's complex. One was made entirely out of wood and the other was decorated with Buddhas on every wall. The wooden temple had big round windows that were open to let in the sunlight. By one of the windows two little monks were playing with a cat that had wandered in. The sun's rays would dance into the room and light up portions of the temple as we walked around.

The other building had hundreds of small arched niches carved into the walls each housing a Buddah with beautiful intricate mosaics adorning the spaces between the niches.

After the temple we worked up an appetite and went to a restaurant in the town by the jetty. The town was dotted with motorcycles and bustling people. We had Shan Stye Noodle Soup. It was absolutely delicious! Felt like the perfect comfort food.

We then hopped in a long yellow and green canoe with a motor strapped to the back and we were off on Inle Lake! The waterway from the jetty was busy with these canoe-type boats going in both directions. After passing the town on either side the narrow waterway opened up into the wide vast lake. When our guide described Inle Lake as a dream, I really was not sure what to expect. But as soon as we popped out onto the lake I knew immediately what she meant. The water is calm and reflective. The scenery is serene with mountain cradling the lake and an immediate calm and awe washes over you as you peer out into the blue water.

We passed fisherman quietly catching their food. One style of fishing looks like a dance the fisherman does with their wire cage. They delicately balance one leg at the tip of their canoe and the other hugs a paddle as they slowly dip it into the water and turn their canoe to get the best angle to catch the fish.

Our second day we woke up early to go to a market place where the locals go to get their produce. The mornings are chilly on the lake with fog lifting off the water and the lighting turning everything shades of blue.

We took an hour boat ride to the market passing multiple villages built on stilts with unique designs for each house, some were painted and others had different wood finishes. We passed floating gardens where the crops are grown and then parked our boat on shore near the market. There were oxen with carts waiting to be filled with items purchased for the week. Women in colorful clothing hurriedly walked by us. The market was a great spot to see people from surrounding villages and understand their culture. There were fresh vegetables, fish, spices, and everything was vibrant and colorful. Everything was a feast for our eyes!

After exploring the market we hopped back into the boat and went down a waterway where we had to speed up so the boat could jump over various levies that were built to irrigate the floating fields. This was one of my favorite things! The front of the boat would push up and fly over the levee then plop down into the water with a splash. This adventurous ride took us to Indein. As soon as you walked into this temple and pagoda complex you could feel the history and sense of magic. The colorful temples are from the 16th and 17th centuries. We felt like we were in a fantasy walking through this sacred area, like it was a secret we were sharing as we peaked around temples.

On our way back to our hotel we went through a village that had built bridges over the water. Each bridge was built differently and were interesting to ride under.

Our last day in Inle Lake was busy, our first stop was to the Floating Market. Once we entered the market area a wooden boat with two women in it came up next to our boat. They were trying to sell silver products. As they showed us their wares they held onto our boat so we'd float down together. Then an older woman on a boat grabbed onto the other side of ours and was showing us flowers she had for sale. They both held on till we made it to the dock and we got out to walk around the rest of the market.

This floating market used to all be on the water but the area has since dried up so now the market is mostly on land. There is a worry that the environment in Inle Lake is changing due to deforestation, higher populations, higher poverty level and will one day dry up. The water levels have already decreased drastically and waterways that once were used are now almost gone. It would be so awful for it to dry up for all the people who live there and depend on the water for their way of life as well as a natural beauty disappearing forever.

After exploring the market we went to Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda where we walked around and saw the Five Statues of Buddha that have been rubbed and piled with gold leaf that they have lost their features and look like round shapes. There is a festival where they put four of the statues onto a golden boat shaped like a bird and parade through the villages. The boat is docked near the Temple so you can go see this enormous detailed boat.

We had our lunch at Inthar Heritage House. It is a beautiful building with flowers surrounding the front. We tried their fish in banana leaves and it was delicious! The Heritage House also has a burmese cat sanctuary where you can go into different rooms and play with some of the cats.

The rest of our day was filled with meeting people and learning about their culture and crafts. We saw a silver smith and watched as he carefully made jewelry We went to a weaving factory where they make scarves, shawls, and longees, we watched as women pulled thread out of a lotus stalk, boat craftsman working on a canoe, and a woman making cheroot (their traditional cigars). The culture is so rich and the crafts have been handed down from generations. It was such a beautiful experience to meet these people with my Mom and learn together about this unique culture.

Mountain Temple and Wild Monkeys!

While we were in Bagan we decided to take the drive to go see Mount Popa, it is an extinct volcano that has The Popa Taungkalat Monastery on it's rocky slopes. I mean, come on, already this temple sounds amazing, extinct volcano with rocky cliff sides and amazing views, what more could you ask for? Monkeys, you say? Well, YUP, this Temple has wild monkeys as well!

On our way to the Monastery we stopped by a local sugar cane farm. The locals showed us how they collect the sugar from the trees, they had to climb the tall palms. The men used ladders that were hand-made and attached to the trees. It was very interesting to watch, the ladders seemed so rickety! They also demonstrated how they use an Ox to grind the nuts.

After the farm, we continued on the road. We drove on an old shortcut road that was once used by the man who used to collect flowers for the King. The driver we had would honk at cars in front of him to pass them. My Mom was shocked at how much honking went on, and even more shocked when the driver honked at a police car to pass him! It was cool to see the different cars on the road, we even saw some monks on a motorcycle!

After a point our car could only go so far. We had to stop driving, park the car, and walk the rest of the way. If you ever thought traffic in any city you've been to/live in is bad, this tops it all! There were cars lined on this small two-way street all trying to get closer to the Monastery. Huge buses would try to weave through open spaces and motorcycles would go speeding by. This area was so busy! We had to be careful as we walked in between cars and buses, who knew what was going to come through!

Along our walk we stopped in a small temple that had statues of many of the Nats (or Spirits) that guard this spiritual area. There are 37 Nats total that call Mount Popa their home and people pay their respects to them before going up to the monastery. 

While we were walking we could see The Popa Taungkalat Monastery sitting on top of the rock we were about to walk up 777 steps to go see. Along the walk there were tea shops, little stores, and small food vendors that lined up on the road side. 

Once you enter the temple area and are about to start climbing the steps, you are required to take off your shoes. By this point in our trip we were used to taking off our shoes before entering a temple. My Mom was ready and armed with sanitizing cloths for when we were done exploring the temple.

We were warned about the monkeys before entering the temple. They are mischievous and wild! we were told to make sure everything we bring with us is attached or we hold onto it if we see a monkey. They love shiny objects, we had to keep our cameras and glasses close to us so the monkeys couldn't grab them. We were already ready with not wearing any necklaces or bracelets they could easily take.

As we were walking, I was distracted by the monkeys on the steps I hardly noticed the one sitting above me in the rafters. Thankfully I noticed just in time as he peed onto the stairs below, just in front of me! I'm so glad I avoided that! It could have been bad!

The stairs we climbed were covered with what seemed like tin and wood roofs. There were a lot of groups making the climb on the day we went. We saw quite a few school groups and youth groups. At different points along the ascent there were no coverings and it was open, you could see the land below. There were some beautiful views.

At the top there is a golden stupa and a spiritual spot where a monk meditated till he disappeared. People come to visit that location and pay their respect.

On our way down from the temple the stairs lead you through a winding labyrinth of a small market place. Kind of like "exiting through the gift shop". It was an interesting experience to end the climb by walking through local souvenir stands. We then had to make our trek back to where we left the car, back through the buses and motorcycles, although it was a little less crazy since some people had left by then.

Northern Birthday

Exactly two years ago my Mom and I were in Canada. It happened to be over my birthday! We decided to take a trip all the way up to as far north as we could handle to try to see The Northern Lights. We threw in all the cold weather clothing we had, heat tech undershirts, fleece leggings, thick fleece socks, and any hats and scarves we could grab! We met up in Chicago and flew from there to Winnipeg where we would spend one night before heading up to Churchill.

Once we arrived we immediately felt the cold air brush up against our faces and eat through our jeans. Any words you spoke were accompanied with steamy hot air leaving your mouth in a cloud then dissipate as the cold broke it down. We couldn't even imagine that it would be colder where we were heading!

Our first night in Winnipeg we met the other people who would be on our tour group while in Churchill. Everyone was very kind and were mostly older couples. After dinner we all went into one of the hotel rooms where the company we went with had set up a winter closet full of all the cold weather gear you would need. We picked up a coat, fleece scarf, fleece hat, gloves, snow shoes, and snow pants. Obviously any clothing my Mom and I brought was not going to be enough.

The very next morning we hopped on a small propeller type plane to Churchill with all our new gear. Once the plane got closer to Churchill the view out of the window was absolutely incredible. Looking down and only seeing snow and ice was a very unique experience. Not a scene that I usually am accustomed to seeing. I felt like an explorer about to discover a new land!

That first day in Churchill was mainly used to get accustomed to the cold and see a little bit of the town. We also met up with our photo expert on the trip, Mike Macri. He gave a little bit of a lecture and gave some advice on taking photos in below freezing temperature. All of the tips he gave were great! The one that stuck with me was putting your camera in a plastic bag with silica gel bead packets so that it sucks the cold moisture out of your camera.

The next day we got up early to explore the town. It took my Mom and I an extra 20 minutes to get ready. We had to put on sock liners, toe warmers, thick fleece socks, snow-boots, fleece leggings, snow pants, long sleeve undershirt, sweater, fleece jacket, parka, scarf, beanie, fur lined hat, glove liners, hand warmers, and then mittens! We were not used to this kind of layering! Luckily we knew to go to the bathroom before putting all of that on! After all of that layering we went to where the Hudson Bay is and were able to see what it looks like completely frozen.

We got around in this great school bus! It was quite an experience to see a bus this frozen and have to scrape your window to get the ice off so you can see the snowy white landscape that's outside!

One of my favorite things we saw on this excursion was the Inuksuk. I loved the idea of making a marker to show where home is. It is this big rock formation out of dark colored rocks that sticks out in the snow. When everything around you is white with no defined differences in the landscape these inuksuks help differentiate your surroundings. There is something strong and romantic about them.

After our view of the Hudson Bay we went to The Northern Studies Center for lunch and to learn how to build an igloo! Building a proper igloo was not something I ever thought I would ever do in my life. Let me tell you right now it was not at all easy. In fact it was very difficult! There was thick densely packed snow that you used a saw to cut into to create the cold ice blocks. I didn't think it was possible to sweat in below freezing temperatures, but boy did I sweat trying to saw that block out! We ended up building the igloo as a team, which is great, otherwise I think I'd still be there two years later!

That night we went to a local's cabin for stories of Churchill throughout the years. He had built this cabin, it is what is called a dry cabin, which means there is no running water or pipes. But it was a beautiful home! They had built a massive bonfire outside, my Mom and I decided to see if we felt warm by the fire. We also thought we would be able to see the Northern Lights this night, but it was too cloudy.

The next day we went to where these cabins were lined up near a frozen river. We were able to walk on the river and feel the ice beneath our snow boots. The scenery was gorgeous. Everything was a snowy pure white.

We also got to meet this little Husky who was outside her owner's house. She was very sweet and a nice introduction to true northern huskies! 

After exploring and some lunch we went to Dave's Kennel. He is a Dog Sled Racer. It was great listening to him talk about how much he loves his dogs and how well he treats them. He gives them hot soup and does doggy yoga with them. Seeing how much the dogs loved the outdoors and racing was so great! Dave was telling us about the Hudson Bay Quest, which is a 400km dog sled race that people come from all over to compete in.

After seeing the dogs and petting them I was so ready to get into the sled with my Mom and go racing off with a pack of dogs and a well-trained sled leader of course!

I apologize for the bad photo below, it is a screen grab of the go pro video we took while on the sled ride. The ride was absolutely amazing! The cold air sped passed our faces and there was a sense of calm and peace as the snowy scenes on either side blurred passed. I loved watching the pups bark and be excited to run down the trail.

Again this night we went to try to see if we could see the Northern Lights, but it was too overcast again. We only had one more night left to see them and the weather was not looking too great.

On our last full day in Churchill after we had breakfast a few of us went with the photographer Mike to an area where we could ride down a smooth path on a snowmobile. It was something I had never done before, and was an interesting experience, especially when trying to drive it! I didn't realize how much like a motorcycle it was and had to keep leaning into all the turns. After riding around for a little we went to the Eskimo Museum. There were a lot of beautiful artifacts and stories.

This night was our last night to see the Northern Lights, all the other nights had been too overcast to see any stars let alone any lights. The group decided to go to this place called Kelly's Tent to see the lights. The forest surrounds the tent and it is far enough away from the town that there is no light pollution to affect the sky. When we arrived the sky was still cloudy but looked like the clouds wanted to clear away. We set up our cameras on tripods, ready in case anything happened, and then went into the heated tent and had some hot chocolate with Bailey's. I decided to go outside around midnight to see if the lights were ready to come out yet. There was a faded cloudy band that was forming across the sky, but really didn't look like much. Our tour guide whistled me "Happy Birthday" because by midnight it was my birthday! As soon as I went back into the tent everyone had surprised me with a cake! It was so sweet! I made a wish on the candles for the Northern Lights to dance and light up the sky and then quickly blew out the candles. Everyone had a piece of cake, then I decided to check the sky outside to see if my wish worked. Guess what!? 5 minutes after I stood out there the sky started to glow! 

It intensified as the night went on. The sky did literally dance, it was putting on a performance to music only it could hear. There were waves of light moving across the sky like someone was playing a giant piano moving their fingers quickly across the keys. I was standing outside in the cold next to my Mom and soaking in every second, every moment of this night, as I turned 25. I decided to lay down in the snow and watch the beautiful show nature put on for us in celebration. It truly was a spiritual moment that I will hold onto forever, and only made better by experiencing it with my Mom.

Photo by Mike Macri - http://macriphoto.smugmug.com/

Photo by Mike Macri - http://macriphoto.smugmug.com/

Bagan - Living in History

““Bagan is like living in history””

— Cho Hnin Wai

How often do you get the chance to roam around a foreign land that is dotted with old temples exposed to time and untouched by development!?

A charm and untouched gem of Myanmar - Bagan. Walking around this area makes you feel like you entered an old Indiana Jones movie, but there is no villain, only pure exploration. Myanmar is incredibly unique in this way. One city can be what the present is while a short flight makes you feel like you went on a time machine instead of an airplane.

When we first arrived we wandered down the narrow dirt paths of the Nyaing Oi Market. There were fresh fruit and vegetable stands lining the sides and above our heads were tarps and scraps of fabric stuck together acting as a roof. The market place was incredibly busy with people haggling down produce prices and hurriedly walking past. My mom was enjoying the sights and trying to take everything in. She wanted to buy some of the more exotic looking fruits.

As soon as we popped out of the market we were immediately on a sidewalk facing a busy but confusing street. There were horses, cars, horse & Buggies, motorcycles, and trucks that would drive past. The buildings lining the sidewalk looked like someone hopped in an old-western movie and grabbed the sets!

We were also very lucky to be able to visit a lacquer-ware studio where we were shown the painstaking tedious process of making these beautiful lacquer pieces. Each piece needs to be heated in the kiln several times over multiple months, after each new layer is added. At the end of the process the pieces are all hand painted with beautiful designs. We saw as women painted some plates and bowls. The owner showed us their store and picked up a very ornate dish, she showed it to us, then held it over her head and smashed it to the floor! The plate did not brake! But my Mom and I got quite a fright thinking it would! She wanted to show us just how durable and beautiful these pieces are.

Bagan is truly an amazing place, it is filled with such culture and vibrancy of life. It also has strong ties to the past, with old temples that spot the landscape. We visited Swezigon Pagoda, it is huge and has gold stupas reaching to the sky. There are ornate golden stands with Lotus flowers lined the perimeter of the Pagoda. Birds flew by and perched on the golden flowers. 

We visited an old temple that at one point must have had pure white walls on it's exterior with golden stupas, but with time had become weathered. It felt like we were staring at something that was once grand but then forgotten. 

My Mom and I wandered the halls of this old Temple. The ceiling and walls inside were peeling, exposed to the weather outside and the sun's light. There were big golden Buddhas that were sitting against some of the walls and they seemed to have stood the temple's test of time.

At each temple we had to take our shoes off and walk around barefoot. My mom had a funny time with this, always before putting her shoes back on she would pull out a wet-wipe to clean her feet off. Our guide thought it was funny, she would just slip her feet back into her sandals.

Honestly, even driving around Bagan was amazing. There were temples on either side of the road and in the distance. It was truly surreal to be wandering around this city. I felt like My Mom and I were exploring a lost land, where in any temple there could be some kind of amazing treasure or grand story.

We ate lunch near some of the old temples. Enjoyed a signature Avocado salad and fish curry. Simply delicious and with a great view! 

The pagodas and temples popped out of the bushes and trees, made it look like a lost ancient world. Echoing a different time and standing strong to the years and weather.

One of the temples we visited really stuck with me, it had elaborate murals of the Buddha on the walls, but the images were tearing and decaying. Lost to time. These temples and ancient pieces of art need care and to be restored. It would be an absolute shame to lose these temples, Bagan would turn into a real lost world. It is necessary to preserve the past and culture. Especially something as beautiful as Bagan, a place that is truly magical and authentic in a world of fakes and tourist traps. Where else can you wander and explore an ancient time!?

To end our day of exploration we climbed up the steep steps of Shwesandaw Pagoda, where we watched as the sun's light reflect off of Pagodas and Temples stretching out for miles. The Stupas bounced the light off their golden tops creating enchanting silhouettes and really highlighted the magic of Bagan.

Yangon - The Present

“Bagan is like living in history. Lake Inley is like living in a dream. Rahkine is like a Legend”

— Cho Hnin Wai, Guide in Myanmar

My mom is full of adventure and a yearn for exploration. I can tell her spirit isn't quite settled when she can't get a taste of Travel. More often then not her need for adventure ends up taking us to some off-the-beaten path places. I mean, even when we did a family trip to Paris, a place that the first thing that comes to mind is romance and beauty, she took us on a tour of the sewers. But that's a whole other story for another post! The one I'm about to share is about our trip to Myanmar. 

Myanmar got on my Mom's radar from seeing photos of it's beautiful temples and fairytale like landscapes. And she thought, what better place to celebrate New years and take advantage of Christmas Time off?!

So immediately after landing in Yangon we went to the Reclining Buddha. My Mom doesn't waste any time! This was a great introduction to Myanmar, a Buddhist country. We walked around the enormous ornate Buddha as he stared back over us. Everything about the Buddha represented something important, on his feet he had the universe etched in red and gold. People would come to pay their respects and light incense. There is also a shrine next to the Buddha that represents the days of the week where people will pray to the day belonging to their birthday.

After the Reclining Buddha, we strolled through the city which was like a cultural lesson for the senses. The whole city was alive with activity. There were busy market places and stands selling books. Dotting the sidewalks were small noodle and tea carts that had play plastic tables and chairs next to them. The streets were humming with traffic which all ended up circling a huge golden pagoda in the middle of the city.

That evening we ventured to Swedagon Pagoda. I have never seen anything like it in my life. The Pagoda is filled with Golden Temples and Shrines that turned more golden as the sun's rays tickled their surfaces. I loved all the colorful statues depicting different characters from the Buddhist stories. Exploring this Pagoda was such a treat. Felt like we entered a storybook. 

My mom loved the Buddhas in the alcoves that had multi-colored lights swirling behind them. She cleverly thought they looked like Disco Buddhas. They illuminated even more as the sun set behind the spires of gold.

With the morning light shining bright we went to a Buddhist Nunnery. There were girls of all ages in pink robes with shining heads reflecting the morning rays. My Mom and I were allowed to walk around and see where they live, pray, and learn. The girls were all smiles and laughter.

From the pinks of the nunnery we went to the reds and golds of a monastery. My Mom and I were guided through their Temple and compound. We then watched in wonderment as all the monks of all ages lined up for lunch time. Youngest to Oldest. There was no pushing or yelling, everyone waited patiently for the time to enter the food hall. Once they were inside they said their prayer together in unison.

We then visited a Music School and watched a performance by the students. Afterwards a teacher took us on a tour of their humble building. It was wonderful to see how many kids benefited from the music lessons. As a girl who grew up in America, I was afforded an equal education of the arts, maths, sciences, and history, it is always an eye opener to see how other kids in the world get educated and things I've taken for granted because they are so readily available in the U.S. This music school allows kids to learn how to play instruments since most can not afford an instrument of their own. Traveling with my Mom has always been a secondary form of education. It has allowed me to see and understand other parts of the world. My Mom may not realize it, but that has shaped who I am today. People often say actions speak louder then words, so I would say that experiences last longer then anything you can study in a book. And I am so grateful for that education.

Then of course one of the best parts of travel: FOOD. We had lunch at this outdoor restaurant with colorful lanterns floating from the surrounding trees. We had butter fish curry, chicken curry, and a watercress dish. All absolutely delicious.

After, with our bellies full, we wandered through the twists and turns of the oldest marketplace in the city. It felt like an enormous maze of curiosities, There were gems in cases, bags hanging like bats down sides of alcoves to sellers, puppets dangling on strings watching the passers-by, Fruits filling the air with sweet scents, and colorful bolts of fabrics. The aisles were narrow forcing your eyes to take everything in.

To end our day and visit to Yangon, we ventured to the only Synagogue in the city. The area used to be a Jewish neighborhood but now it is a thriving muslim community. The temple was very nice and the temple's president showed us two old Torahs that were originally from Baghdad. My Mom and I as well as five other foreigners visiting the Temple lit the menorah for the last night of Hanukkah. Was a unique experience to share with my Mom in a far-away county.

Introductions

Like any story, there is a beginning, so let's start with that. or maybe we can just hop into the middle and work our way back.

Now, I'm a mid 20-something who has become unbelievably fascinated with the world and all the amazing places it has to offer. I owe this intense wanderlust and love affair with travel to my Mom. 

There are a few things you should know about her. 

1. Camels are her favorite animal, to the point where friends and family have made it her weird quirk obsession. We have 200 plus camels in our home ranging from figurines to paintings, most of these were gifts. We even have a camel mailbox, which was a gift.

I kid you not, this is our mail box! 

2. Hula dancing is her passion. When she is swaying to the ukelele tunes the biggest smile and look of peace envelops her face.

3. Don't ever take a full frozen discard pile of Canasta Cards when playing with her. That is the quickest way to get some angry words thrown your way.

But, what you really have to know is she has the most beautiful adventurous spirit of anyone I know. She is so brave and independent. Always willing to try something new and breathe in life to it's fullest. This is what fuels her travels.

When I was in school my Mom, Dad, Brother, and I would go somewhere almost every break we got. Winter Break was always reserved for South Africa to visit my Dad's side of the family, Spring Break was usually a Dude Ranch, and Summer was open season for any destination.

One day (when I was in highschool) my Mom came up with the idea to do a Mother-Daughter Trip, using the excuse of my cousin's Bat Mitzvah in Australia. We booked our first trip together and since then we have had many wonderful adventures.

"Travels With a Hula Dancing Camel"  is the accounts of these adventures! I hope you enjoy!